Buyer’s Checklist: Evaluating a Used Reel to Reel Tape Deck

A practical, field‑ready guide for avoiding heartbreak and finding a machine worthy of your system.

Last week we posted a question: “Should you buy an open reel-to-reel tape deck?” If your answer was Yes, then you might find this follow up article useful. 

Buying a used reel‑to‑reel deck can be thrilling — but also risky. These machines are 40 to 60 years old, full of precision mechanics, and often hiding problems that aren’t obvious until you’re deep into ownership. This checklist helps you separate the gems from the money pits.

1. Initial Assessment Used Reel to Reel Tape Deck (Before Powering It On)

☐ Overall Condition

•         Look for dents, cracks, missing knobs, bent reel tables.

•         Check for corrosion on screws, connectors, and chassis edges.

•         Inspect the back panel — rust or nicotine staining often signals poor storage.

☐ Signs of Amateur Repair

•         Mismatched screws

•         Excess glue or tape

•         Non‑original wiring

•         Random capacitors dangling in mid‑air

If it looks like someone “fixed” it with a soldering iron and hope, walk away.

☐ Completeness

Confirm the deck includes:

•         NAB hubs (if required)

•         Dust cover (if applicable)

•         Side panels

•         Original power cord

•         Tension arms, rollers, and guides intact

Missing parts can be expensive, or impossible to source.

2. Transport Mechanics

☐ Reel Tables

•         Spin each reel table by hand.

•         They should rotate smoothly with no wobble or scraping.

☐ Pinch Roller

•         Check for cracks, glazing, or hardness.

•         Press with a fingernail — it should be slightly compliant, not rock‑hard.

☐ Capstan

•         Should spin freely and silently when turned by hand.

•         No grinding or lateral play.

☐ Tape Path Cleanliness

•         Heads, guides, and rollers should be clean and free of oxide buildup.

•         Heavy brown residue suggests neglect.

☐ Tension Arms (if present)

•         Should move smoothly without sticking.

•         Springs should feel even and controlled.

3. Heads (The Most Important Part)

☐ Visual Wear

Use a flashlight and magnifier:

•         Flat spots?

•         Grooves?

•         Uneven wear?

•         Sharp edges?

Deep wear = expensive relapping or replacement.

☐ Head Gap Condition

•         Look for a clean, sharp gap line.

•         A smeared or widened gap means the head is near end‑of‑life.

☐ Alignment Screws

•         Check for tool marks — signs someone has been “experimenting.”

☐ Head Shielding

•         Ensure shields and covers are present and intact.

4. Electronics and Controls

☐ Power‑On Behavior

•         Does it power up cleanly?

•         Any smoke, hum, or burning smell? (If Yes, stop immediately)

☐ Transport Controls

Test:

•         Play

•         Stop

•         Rewind

•         Fast‑forward

•         Pause

•         Record (if safe to do so)

Buttons should respond crisply, and not be mushy or intermittent.

☐ VU Meters

•         Needles should move smoothly.

•         No sticking or erratic jumps.

☐ Pots and Switches

•         Turn knobs slowly — listen for scratchiness or dropouts.

•         Toggle switches should feel firm, not loose.

5. Audio Performance (If You Can Test With Tape)

☐ Speed Stability

•         Listen for pitch wavering or flutter.

•         Watch the tape for smooth motion.

☐ Channel Balance

•         Both channels should be equally loud and clear.

☐ Noise Floor

•         Excess hiss, hum, or buzz indicates electronic issues.

☐ Record/Playback Test

If possible:

•         Record a tone or music.

•         Play it back.

•         Check for clarity, frequency balance, and dropouts.

6. Internal Inspection (If Allowed)

☐ Belts and Idlers

•         Check for melted belts, cracked idlers, or debris.

☐ Capacitors

•         Look for bulging, leaking, or corroded electrolytics.

☐ Boards and Connectors

•         No burnt traces.

•         No hacked‑in components.

•         No loose connectors.

☐ Motors

•         Look for oil leaks or excessive dust buildup.

7. Documentation and Provenance

☐ Service History

Ask for:

•         Receipts

•         Calibration logs

•         Technician notes

A deck with documented service is worth far more.

☐ Ownership History

•         Studio use? (Often high hour.)

•         Private collector? (Often better cared for)

☐ Manuals

Original or PDF copies are invaluable.

8. Red Flags — Walk Away If You See These

•         Deep head wear

•         Missing headblock screws

•         Non‑functioning capstan

•         Burnt smell from electronics

•         Severe corrosion

•         “It powers on but I can’t test it”

•         Seller refuses internal photos

•         Deck stored in a garage, attic, or basement

Any one of these can turn a bargain into a restoration nightmare.

9. Price Reality Check

☐ Budget for Restoration

Even a “working” deck may need:

•         New pinch roller

•         Belt kit

•         Full calibration

•         Recapping

•         Head relapping

Expect €300–€1,500 depending on model.

☐ Compare Against Market Prices

Some decks (Studer, Technics, Otari) command premium prices. Others (consumer TEAC, Akai) should be affordable.

10. Final Decision Matrix

Buy it if:

•         Heads are in good shape

•         Transport is smooth

•         Electronics behave

•         No major corrosion

•         Price reflects condition

•         Parts are available

Walk away if:

•         Heads are worn

•         Transport is noisy or unstable

•         Seller is evasive

•         Deck shows signs of amateur repair

•         Parts are unobtainable

Closing Thought

A reel‑to‑reel deck can be the crown jewel of your system — but only if you choose wisely. With this checklist in hand, you’ll be able to evaluate a used machine with confidence, avoid the common traps, and find a deck that delivers the magic of tape without the heartbreak.